Lace Techniques
Lacis is one of the earliest of the lace-like fabrics. Made on a square net ground, filling in some blocks with darning and leaving the rest open, the closest modern equivalent is perhaps filet crochet. The stark contrast between the blocky pattern and the lighter net background made lacis an ideal method for the manufacture of coverlets and similar furniture trimmings. It was less suited to use on the stiff, geometric design fabrics used in dress in the 15th and 16th centuries; the main use it was put to in dress trim was on the yokes of chemises, partlets and shirts.
Drawn-and pulled-thread embroidery are in fact still made in the modern age; this branch of embroidery is one of the main foundations of needle-made lace. In pulled- thread embroidery, the threads are pulled together and then secured, leaving holes in the underlying fabric.
In drawn-thread embroidery, threads are cut and entire sections of the underlying fabric removed, leaving a minimal framework of horizontal and vertical threads which are then reinforced with needle-weaving and overcast stitch. The remaining square or rectangular openings are then filled in with decorative stitches. The characteristic geometric appearance of this fabric displayed very well on the ruffs and cuffs of the fabrics used in the costume of the 16th century, especially since these fabrics were stretched over rigid bodices and farthingales. This sort of embroidery was known at the time as cutwork (point coupe and reticella, in France and Italy, respectively).
Several forms of whitework also give a lace-like appearance (notably Richlieu, Venetian and Madeira embroideries). The design of these embroideries is transferred to the cloth; the edges of the design are secured with buttonhole and/or overcast stitch; any connecting elements are added, such as bars; and the excess fabric is cut away. These forms of whitework are still made today, often under the misnomer of cutwork. The designs are often free-flowing and floral, rather than the geometics of reticella.
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